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Your resource for advice from Hubbard® Life experts.

New Year, New Opportunities: Get your game birds ready

What a difference a year can make and we’ve definitely seen a turnaround when it comes to moisture this season. Crops are projected to be very good in most parts of the Corn Belt, which has driven grain prices to much lower levels.

“USDA forecast the corn crop at 14.03 billion bushels, up from its July forecast of 13.86 billion and from the 2013 harvest of 13.925 billion. The soybean crop at 3.816 billion would be up from July’s 3.8 billion forecast and from 2013’s 3.3 billion”.

That’s good news for our game bird producers who rely on formulas that contain corn, soybean meal, and other crops. Many of you are at a point where this year’s flock is nearing maturity and ready for hunting season, but one may want to consider the opportunities that lie ahead for this coming year’s crop. Now is a good time to start looking at forward pricing for your game bird feeds to give you an idea where prices are going to be.

The following will give you a guideline for figuring how much total feed you’ll need per bird;





Starter to 6 weeks

.8 lbs

1.4 lbs

1.8 lbs


2.5 lbs to 16 weeks

5 lbs to 14 weeks

9 lbs to 14 weeks

**Remember to add Flight Conditioner quantities depending on how long you’ll be holding your birds.


Why not give consideration to the great Hubbard® Life Game Bird feeds this coming year. These items are proven to provide optimum performance and the quality you expect and deserve.

Hubbard Life Game Bird Products

Game Bird Starter:  A complete 27% granulated ration that is specifically formulated for priming the digestive tract for optimal development and growth in all game birds.

Game Bird Grower:  A complete 20% (min-pellet) granulated ration for growing game birds fast and efficiently for market using high levels of vitamins/minerals and probiotics.

Game Bird Flight:  A complete 17% (min-pellet) granulated ration specifically formulated using synthetic and natural amino acids for producing well-feathered, lean birds that will be released at a later stage. Ideal for birds that are going to be released for immediate hunting.

Game Bird Breeder:  A complete 18% ration with high levels of vitamins and trace minerals to help improve fertility, egg strength, hatchability and chick livability.

Posted on 8/27/2014 by Doug Rowse  |  Category: Specialty, Game Bird
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A Weedy Problem: Watch your pastures







Sometimes I have thumb problems.  While many people are very proud of their green thumbs, mine tends to look a little, well, black.  It usually shows up when I have a weed eater or a jug of Round-Up in my hands.  If it is not a corn plant, a tomato or a flower WITH a bloom, it looks like a weed and therefore it is the enemy that must not live on my farm.  My wife gets upset with me sometimes for destroying some flowers but I usually keep the place looking ok. 

But in my pasture/hay fields, where I want my plants to flourish, I continue to have a little more of a “black instead of a green” thumb.  With horses, mini donkeys and chickens, I am very hesitant to use any herbicide on the hay fields/pastures.  I know there are ways to clear weeds but there is a reason why I went into animal science and not crop science.

Some of the problem weeds that may be in a pasture or hayfield may include thistle, Milkweed and Queen Anne’s Lace. Their names make it fairly easy to know what they look like and that are not good for my animals…but other noxious plants are not as familiar. 

As I was doing research about bad weeds for horses, I found there are so many weeds they will not fit on this page.  Some are very regional (Houndstongue in the Pacific NW) and some are found in most places like Red Oak leaves. 

A short list of toxic plants may include Nightshade, Milkweed, Buttercups, Braken Fern, Lilly of the Valley and if ingested in large amounts, plants like lambsquarter and pig weed can create issues.

Luckily, most animals will not eat these toxic plants as long as there are other things to eat.  A problem may occur however when the weeds are cut and baled in hay so the horses may eat some accidentally.

So the question becomes, what can you do about these bad plants?  First is learn to identify them.  I have a lot of nice neighbors that have farmed around me for a long time that know their plants.  Second, decide how you wish to get rid of weeds.  Pulling or cutting them is one way but if you have a weed that grows via rhizomes (a horizontal root system), then that does not work well as I found with Johnson grass.    You could “Round-Up” the whole field and start again but that takes time and, correctly done, lots of money.  You can use some form of the herbicide 2,4 D that does not have a withhold time (please check application directions) that will get rid of all broad leaf plants (which includes most of the bad weeds).   I have tried a couple of ways with limited success and am going to try another direction this year but I hope after reading this, your thumb is now a little greener. 

Posted on 8/7/2014 by Dr. Ed Bonnette  |  Category: Equine, Poultry, Cat, Dog, Rabbit, Sheep, Goat, Specialty
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